Today is the day I am hitching through Arthurs Pass
over to the west coast. I’m slightly nervous about this as it is one road up
through the Mountains where the temperature drops significantly and there is
just bush and nothingness all around, including limited phone signal. And if an
axe murderer did actually pick me up and intend to murder me – there wouldn’t
be many who would hear my cry.
So…I decided to cheat. Luke, (who picked me up for the Akaroa trip)
decides he is still in holiday mode and agrees to come along for the adventure
through the mountains. A lift all the way. RESULT!
Driving through the mountains
We set off early in the rain and fog of
Christchurch but soon enough it begins to clear and the stunning views are
visible. Nowhere else in New Zealand does the coast rise to mountains so
quickly. From Christchurch the road traverses the Canterbury plains and
escalates rapidly into the Porter Heights and Craigieburn skiing areas before
following the Waimakariri and Bealey rivers to Arthurs Pass. This drive is a
sight to behold - beautiful mountains, some snow-capped, some with extremely
unusual rock formation, waterfalls, valleys and gorges, beautiful greenery and
birds along the way. The Maori term for New
Zealand is Aotearoa; land of the long white cloud and this is very evident all along the drive. The Castle
Hill area has fascinating limestone outcrops and some scenes from the Lord of the Rings trilogy and Chronicles of Narnia have been filmed in
the area. Arthurs Pass is New Zealands highest-altitude settlement and a cute
(if tiny) town and a good base for many hikes, tramps and climbs. Soon after
driving through we come to Deaths Corner where there is a lookout we decide to
stop at. We realise when we get
out of the van that there are kea birds everywhere. They begin to ascend on the
van and start picking away at it and it’s really funny. Keas, native to New
Zealand, are known to be fearless and inquisitive birds, capable of killing
sheep and breaking into your car through the windows. I manage to get up close
to get some pictures. As these parrots spread their wings their beautiful
colours are visible. They are amazing to watch up close. On walking closer to
the edge of the look-out, I see one of the most amazing sights I have seen so
far in New Zealand. We are looking down into a massive gorge with extremely
unusual rock formation on the sides and a little river running below. A bridge,
that looks extremely dodgy takes cars through and it’s safe to say I am very scared going across. The sky and clouds seem to reflect a crystal like
silvery mirror above the valley, creating an almost surreal image. I am in complete awe. And raging that my camera battery has just died!
The drive is quite simply spectacular and no camera
could do the scenery justice. We carry on by beautiful Lake Brunner, which
locals reckon have the worlds best trout fishing, and finally arrive in,
according to a tourist guide, ‘enchanting Greymouth’. We decide to wait until
tomorrow to see if we believe the writer and head to a backpacker and check in.
Neptunes backpacker is actually a historic West coast pub, part of the old
Gilmer Hotel built in 1905. Dingy? Yes. Old? Yes. Charming? Absolutely. The
nautical themed hostel has a cosy fire, huge fish tanks with turtles and a
wrought iron balcony perfect for soaking up the sunset. There’s also free wifi,
free breakfast and a little bar – so we agree that it was a good choice. We get
chatting to some of the wwoofers, all order 5-dollar dominoes pizza and watch
movies in front of the fire. Call me a granny but I can’t think of a better way
to end the day!
Kea bird at Deaths Corner, Arthurs Pass
Lake Brunner - some of the best trout fishing in the world
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